As I mentioned in my previous post about Rome, the planning and hours leading up to Positano was a rollercoaster itself…almost like the bumpy ride on the oh so memorable SITA bus from Sorrento to Positano. Andrea and I ran into a lot of problems when planning out journey to Positano on the Amalfi Coast and honestly it was all because we didn’t book our train from Naples to Sorrento earlier. Long story short, we ended up booking last minute tickets the night before and having to pay double the prices. Basically, don’t let laziness get to you and always, always book tickets ahead of time. We knew that on the early morning of April 14 we had to take numerous transportations to get to Positano and it went in the order of this: bus to Rome Termini station, Rome Termini train go Naples-Garibaldi station, the Circumvesuviana train from Piazza Garibaldi (part of Napoli-Centrale station) to Sorrento, and the SITA bus to the first stop in Positano which was located closest to our Airbnb called Ch.Nuova (which stands for New Church).
I am going to provide a quick run through of my journey from Rome Termini Station to Poitano, Amalfi Coast because honestly I had done so much research before figuring out how to reach my final destination, but I literally had to compile multiple different websites information to make this happen. Lucky you, now all the information is in one place! You can follow this even if your final destination is Amalfi Town, you would just have to stay on the SITA bus longer and get off at the last stop instead!
First we had to get to Rome Termini Station which is quite easily reached from where I was staying in Rome as it was only one bus ride away. Estimated time was supposed to be 40 minutes to get to the station but due to us catching the bus at 6am and no work traffic yet, we managed to get there in 20 minutes! The station is organised and is quite self-explanatory with platforms numbered big and visibly. Your tickets from Rome to Naples are the only ones for your trip to the Amalfi Coast that require advance booking! We did this through raileurope where prices are reasonable if you book in advance. There are options to have longer journeys where they make more stops but you save more money. To give you an idea, our journey outbound was around 2.5 hours while our journey back to Rome was just under 2 hours. The next train to take is the Circumvesuviana train from the Naples Garibaldi Piazza Station. The train departs from the lowest level and it is quite easily to navigate through the station. However, since it is a much more outdated part of the station and the trains itself are much older too…the process of buying tickets is also more old school. You cannot buy tickets from the ticket booths (we tried haha), but instead there will be a counter ticket booth where you can purchase tickets there. When we got there, there was a huge queue so we ended up missing our train. I would recommend making it here earlier if you are planning to catch a train at a specific time! The train to Sorrento comes around every half hour but check out this website for the Circumvesuviana train to and from Naples to Sorrento. Getting on this train was quite chaotic itself as literally everyone pushed and rushed onto the train to get a seat. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to get a seat until the last half an hour or so.
It took about 1.5 hours to get to Sorrento. As we departed the playform, there is a small convenience store inside the station on the ground level where you can purchase a SITA bus ticket for 1.85 Euros. Here is the bus schedule as well, make sure you check the legend to check when buses are running during weekdays and weekends! The bus stop is looked a few seconds walk away but make sure you are taking the correct SITA bus to the Amalfi Coast. If you have luggage, there is the option of storing your luggage under the bus ad if your luggage is too big they will probably make you do it anyways. The next part was probably the worst part of the journey as we were not able to get seats so we had to stand for about 40 minutes through traffic and constant winding roads and abrupt turns along the coastal highway to the Amalfi Coast. Not to mention, this was high above sea level, so the turns made me feel like I was potentially going to fall hundreds of meters down! I am not the best with motion sickness and I felt super sick during the entirety of the ride, so I would suggest waiting for the next bus if you are not good with motion sickness to ensure you get a seat.
Then we finally made it to Positano! It was a lot colder than in Rome due to being by the ocean and temperatures go for quite the drop compared to the daytime. We arrived between 1/2pm and our airbnb host was absolutely lovely in welcoming us! He was the sweetest man who welcomed us with treats and ensured that we were settled in nicely. The location of our airbnb was quite a ways from the beach but I would recommend this because it allowed us to truly explore Positano. Although it is definitely a tourist run town, travelling through the steep narrow cobbled staircases/roads, you would only run in to a few people. Keep in mind, I went during April so it is definitely not as busy as the summer months. However, I was still surprised to find it crowded at Spiaggia Beach on Positano Coast! The town itself is very colourful with picturesque houses covering the hills and beautiful views everywhere! I simply took way too many pictures of the coast from all directions! We had two meals on the first day, one at La Pergola which is a popular restaurant directly on the beachfront (mainly for tourists) and dinner at Bruno. I found that the average cost for a main course would be around 12-25 Eurors if you are going for middle range prices. Andrea had found that Bruno has really good ratings on tripadvisor which is why we decided to give it a try! I didn’t notice that many restaurants in Positano except when you get closer to the beach, but there are a lot of shops along the main road winding down to the beach. Positano is known for its seafood and it definitely did not disappoint! Literally you can find many options for seafood started, pasta with seafood, and a lot of fish specialty dishes! My meal at La Pergola consisted of a simple spaghetti with clams and a fresh lemonade! We noticed that on the bus ride to Positano, there were a lot of lemon trees so I definitely wanted to give lemonade a try! The food was simple but good! My dinner at Bruno was some type of fish dish with vegetables. I have noticed they love cooking with aubergine in Italy, mmm my favourite! The fish was really fresh, although the portions were smaller than Pergola, the quality and taste of the food made up for it! We were lucky to get a table outside with a ocean view from above as well!
Lovely welcome from our Airbnb host!
Overall, despite my long journey to Positano on the Amalfi Coast, it truly did not disappoint! The scenery is just as beautiful as it looked in pictures and I couldn’t be happier with the views. It is quite expensive to stay in Positano itself and there are many recommendations for staying in Sorrento or Salerno instead to save on the cost, but for convenience and to save myself from the terrible SITA bus, I think it was worth it! Since we only stayed for 2 nights, the cost hit wasn’t so bad as well. I personally don’t think you even need that much time on the coast unless you plan a trip to Capri or plan to just relax at the beach everyday. There really isn’t too much to do in the town itself but I would recommend just walking and getting lost in the tiny cobbled streets and just relaxing by the beach to spend your day! The beach was a bit too overcrowded for my liking at this time in April but I have read this is the best time to go before it gets super hot and unbearably crowded durring the summer months! During the day I was able to wear shorts but during the evenings I would suggest layering and covering up because the temperatures dropped up to a 10 degree difference from day to night! Stay tuned for my next blog where I will take you through my adventures on the Path of the Gods, Sentiero Degli Dei hike!
Ciao for now!